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The switchbacks on the mountain roads are so steep that Heather practically has to put her cheek down on the steering wheel to see up the road. We haven't driven on pavement in hours and have only passed a handful of other vehicles. The roads on top of the mountain passes weave through giant piles of snow and past roaring waterfalls and rivers. This was the rugged Iceland we'd been dreaming of, and then some.

To get to the Westfjords, you have to leave Iceland's Ring Road, the primary route that takes people around the country. Once you leave, the roads quickly turn to packed gravel and dirt, and the road crosses fjords by either traveling their entire length twice (one on each side) or leaping over the mountain itself via an insanely steep and rugged pass. Few fjords have more than a handful of houses, and petrol stations are few and far between.

At every turn, the sheep of Iceland are watching.

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