4:00 pm

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Never believe what an Icelander from the Westfjords tells you about travel time.

The next phase of our trip was due to begin in Ísafjörður at 5pm, with a boat ride to the remote Hornstrandir peninsula for a week of wilderness camping. The folks at our campsite told us that Ísafjörður was a 1.5-hour drive. It took us nearly twice that long, at 3 hours.

The roads of the Westfjords are insane. This particular stretch started with a long, steady climb into the mountains, where we passed miles of snowfields and roaring waterfalls, bounced through innumerable potholes, and passed more than a few cargo trucks. A guard-rail-free descent into a fjord followed and the entire process repeated several times.

When you need to cover a lot of ground, you sometimes have to skip things along the way. We regrettably didn't get much time with the massive waterfall Dynjandi, but we stopped long enough to dance for it, and could see it clearly for the following half-hour of driving.

Seriously, people standing near the foot of the falls looked like ants standing under a shower.

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