5:00 pm

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The top of the pass comes as a relief. The final snowfield took over 30 minutes to traverse, most of it at a sharp uphill angle. Out of the mist comes a huge pile of rocks: the cairn marking the top of the pass. We take a break for lunch, which includes Goo Goo Clusters that we brought from our home in Nashville.

The descent on the other side of the pass is nearly as steep and just as foggy. But just 30 minutes into our descent, the fog lifts and we get a clear view into the fjord, including a glimpse of the Horn itself, the peninsula that we'll explore all day tomorrow. Its sloping cliffs are exotic and alluring.

The fog returns within an hour and doesn't lift for the rest of the trip into Hornvik. Once we reach the valley, it has a magical, mysterious feel to it.

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