4:00 pm

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Miðfell is a high ridge between two glacial valleys on the Horn peninsula. In person, it's more like two cliffs glued together, with a narrow walkway on top. And each cliff is STEEP.

With the foggy weather, we don't get to enjoy views from the top, but the bird cliffs pick up in intensity on the other side. Unseen thousands of birds squawk down below. The occasional kittiwake pops up above the cliff rim, cackles loudly, and disappears again below. It feels like they're playing pranks on us.

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