6:30 pm

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When the house was first built in 1901, people traveled from all over Hornstrandir just to come and look at the bathtub. It was the first one on the peninsula.

These days, Hrólfur runs a guest house and cafe here. We booked accommodation with him for our last night, figuring we could use the shower and home-cooked meal. He greets us warmly and whips up some coffee, then we spend the afternoon talking about the history of the area, our home countries, and the surge in Icelandic tourism. Ísafjörður, the town across the bay and the biggest in the westfjords, is receiving a 5,000-passenger cruise ship tomorrow, and everybody seems uncertain about how it will go. Ísafjörður itself has a population of only 3,000. They're receiving 63 cruise ships this summer, although most are much smaller.

Before long, a curious Arctic fox trots up to the porch, politely posing for photos while waiting for food scraps.

Dinner is lamb stew, and we have two helpings. Three helpings of bread. And don't skip dessert. A chilly after-dinner walk to the old whaling station gets us ready for bed, and it doesn't take long at all to get to sleep.

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