2:00 pm

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We got tourist-trapped HARD in Hólmavík.

We spent the morning racing our Suzuki Jimny across the roads of the eastern Westfjords to get to the Museum of Icelandic Sorcery and Witchcraft before closing time. It's the primary cultural attraction in this part of the country, and considering the rich mythology and harsh climate of Iceland, sounds like a fascinating topic.

In reality, there are almost no genuine artifacts in the museum, and most of the information is in the self-guided tour booklet. Most of the physical items are reproductions or artistic imaginings. Among the "exhibits" are:

"Invisible Boy": A mostly empty glass case with a rune-inscribed rock "held" at roughly hand-height by cables.

"Raising the Dead": A pile of broken concrete on the floor with a mannequin crawling out.

The most interesting part is the genealogy room, where the bloodlines of accusers and accused are traced. Both sides correlate strongly with family lines, revealing an undercurrent of political and personal feuding that carries on for centuries.

Fortunately, they had a decent cafe.

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