Our road trip now leads us out of the Westfjords and into North Iceland. This is where you start getting into deserts, volcanic zones, and powerful glacial rivers.
Our first landmark is Hvitserkur. Legend has it that a club-wielding troll was turned to stone by the rising sun. This rock formation stands about 15 meters tall and is made of magma that was solidified as it rose up through a fissure in the earth. The sides of the fissure have been worn away by the tides, but the hard magma rock remains.
"I am awaited in Valhalla!" the warboy shouts, frantically spraying chrome in his face. The outrageous and exhilarating Mad Max: Fury Road is playing out onscreen, and the Valhalla reference feels especially appropriate.
We weren't really expecting Akureyri to be so inviting, but as the day goes on, we get more comfortable and decide to slow things down a bit. We spend the afternoon in a coffee shop getting caught up on journals and correspondence. We hit a few clothing stores to fill the gaps in our cold-weather wardrobe.
The cinema has two screens but is showing eight films, with each screening basically once per day. When we first see Mad Max listed for 22:30, we figure we won't be awake that long, but spending a few hours in a coffee shop will alter your clock. The theater is surprisingly high-quality, if small.
Afterwards, we set up camp just outside of town in the long-sparkling twilight.