We just finished exploring old Delhi and I'm a little bit in love. This is the India I've read about- delightful chaos. Streams of people and rickshaws and livestock all jostling for space amongst narrow lanes and alleys. Wafts of spices, delectable fried things and the earthy smell of wandering cattle all battling to dominant your senses while you do your best to avoid being run over by a scooter.
We booked what was billed as an adventure tour and it did not disappoint!! Our guide stated firmly several times that this was an experience, not a tour, and that shopping or tipping was not allowed. We climbed to the spires of the spice market through hidden back lanes, flew kites with a group of schoolchildren, and watched a man train his group of pigeons on the roof of his home. Along the way we stopped for some ridiculously good street food. My personal favorite was a winter Delhi treat called "mixed wealth". It was like a sweeter whipped cream topped with edible silver and crumbles of what we as a group decided tasted like sugar cookie dough. We ended with the best meal of my life in a private Havel.
(Just as a side note, I'm writing this in the gorgeous Red Fort campus, and have had about 8 groups of delighted families asking for photos with me)