1:00 pm

Star 0


I signed up for some surfing, the only difference is this time it was a beautiful reef break. I really didn't know what this meant until it was too late.

A water taxi took me out to Paunch beach across from Wizard beach. When I got to the destination, it wasn't a beach, it was the open waters of a canal. When I asked where and when they were going to pick me up, they said in two hours, right here. I look around and I was confused. Here? I argued for a beach pickup, but the surf would prove to be too strong.

The reef break was a spot in the Bocas Del Toro channel where the incoming tide is split by a strong barrier reef forming to surfing breaks. There were mainly advanced surfers there. I rode one of the waves inland towards the beach. I never reached land. The beach was so rocky that I had paddle back out to the reef break and take on the big waves along with the pros. The constant beating from the waves and the extra effort to not be bashed into the rocks put the fear of god in me. "Quoc," I thought to myself, "In your search for adventure you have put yourself into danger again." Despite the overwhelming waves, I hung in there until the water taxi came and rescued me. I was never happier to be back on dry land as that day.

No comments