4:30 pm

Star 0


Arriving in the mid afternoon I had one chance for a last surf run. I rented a bike and made my way down to Cocle beach. From there I had a quick lunch and launched into the water.

It was a crowded beach with surfers practicing the break. I moved out of the way and tried to ride the baby waves. The beach break was just a bit weird. Battling the constant onslaught of waves, the board kept flying out beneath me. I was barely able to stick to it. The times I did manage to ride a wave I was not able to pop up due to a lack of balance.

All in all it was a wash out. My last surf attempt was more of a physical beating than a skill development. I feel strongly resolved to find another surf spot somewhere and perfect my pop up. I want one sweet controlled ride.

No comments