3:30 pm

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It's been hard work. But I can learn to surf.

The lessons have been a bit meager. He just tells me stuff and takes me out for some straight pro action. I wasn't ready as my popup is no where near perfected. So today I practiced just paddling and body boarding. Apparently simple mobility takes lots of strength and practice.

I gave the GoPro camera to my instructor Juan Carlo and he definitely took better photos. While I was going in and out of the waves, I cut the bottom of my foot on the rocks. It's a 1.5 inch gash. That's my red badge of courage.

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