I am feeling weary from the travel road so today I switched from the stuffy Air BnB to this great hotel called Mopelia, owned by a French guy named Gil. This is the first time on the trip that I am treating myself to a single bedroom cottage. For this Christmas week I only want to surf and live in luxury. Also there is a breakfast spot down the road that is 4 dollars for a big meal. That's pretty luxurious to me.
It's been hard work. But I can learn to surf.
The lessons have been a bit meager. He just tells me stuff and takes me out for some straight pro action. I wasn't ready as my popup is no where near perfected. So today I practiced just paddling and body boarding. Apparently simple mobility takes lots of strength and practice.
I gave the GoPro camera to my instructor Juan Carlo and he definitely took better photos. While I was going in and out of the waves, I cut the bottom of my foot on the rocks. It's a 1.5 inch gash. That's my red badge of courage.
I met Nicole Kloss and Adam Stein the other night. They are party animals and dedicated to fun. Adam made a rum and coconut mix at the room. We've all been hanging out, smoking, drinking, and eating like there was no tomorrow. I have had to crash early every night for morning surfing. I couldn't hang on to the party bus.