8:00 pm

Star 1


We drove from Christchurch to Motueka in a beat-up forest-green Land Cruiser with a broken right blinker, climbed over the last big hill in our way, and collapsed into the charming Mussel Inn in Onekaka for our last civilized meal of the week. Another hour or so in the Land Cruiser took us to the end of the road, the edge of Kahurangi National Park -- and Brown Hut.

We had tea and rolled out our sleeping bags for our first night on the Heaphy Track, one of New Zealand's nine Great Walks.

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