12:30 pm

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At this time of day the terraces etched into hillsides catch the sun's rays at just the right angle. Every bend we take holds surprises - one moment we're flanked on both sides by steep hills, the next we're walking along the Modi Khola river, placid and flowing languidly in this area.

For lunch I go for dal bhat. It's the national dish of Nepal and comprises dal (lentil soup), bhat (rice) and vegetable dishes like curried cauliflower, potatoes, pickles and a local spinach called saag. Most Nepalis have it for both lunch and dinner every day. This rendition isn't bad save for the soggy papadum.

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