2:00 pm

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Conveniently enough Pashupatinath is located by the banks of the Bagmati River, where I could drown myself if I wanted to. After seeing what the people sitting on the stone steps across the river are watching I think I'll look for another venue to do that.

Cremation takes place daily outside Pashupatinath along the Bagmati. Bodies are swathed in bright orange cloth, before garlands are laid over the deceased and prayers said. I am told that those covered in plastic sheets are accident victims, poor guy in the foreground.

Macabre as this may seem, it's actually a part of life for most Nepalis, 81% of whom are Hindu. I sat on the steps on the opposite bank for a long time, watching corpses smoulder and relatives wail. Just slightly upstream was an uncle washing his face in the same river. It was a strange scene to witness.

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