3:30 pm

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Walking along the Bagmati to exit the temple grounds, I notice more pyres on the opposite bank. Foreigners aren't allowed on that bank in order to respect the privacy of the deceased and his relatives.

Outside the temple are a line of shops selling artwork and boxes of colorful powder known as tikka. These tikka are used by Hindus for making tilaka, a mark on the forehead or other parts of the body.

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