Prague has definitely grown on me.
Today we explored on Petrin Hill (we took the funicular up), tried trdelnik, which is a spiraled pastry coated in cinnamon and sugar, then wandered through the Jewish Quarter, Josefov. The facades of the buildings in this neighborhood are beautiful and ornate. Just walking the streets is a pleasure for the eyes.
We had another fantastic dinner at Klub Architektu, a well-reviewed restaurant well deserving of its reputation.
The restaurant is underground, underneath Bethlehem Chapel, built in the 1390s as the first preacher’s temple in Europe, but which is now the ceremonious hall of the Czech Technical University after the institution assumed responsibility for it around 1990.
The space is cool.
Cavernous, dark, arch-roofed dining rooms with very low-hung and strangely modern orange-tinted lamps over each table, giving the whole place a bit of a spooky feel. The food was fantastic -- pumpkin seems to be a very popular flavor to base dishes around in this area, and I am not complaining.
We are a family that requires chocolate on a regular basis, but rather than getting dessert at Klub Architektu, we headed to Choco Cafe, a relaxed space that serves chocolate in many forms, so as to have an opportunity to try one more Prague establishment before we had to leave the city.
My parents ordered a truly divine chocolate cake with mousse layers, and I got hot "drinking chocolate" with bananas and strawberries. This was sinful, people. Truly. It was almost too rich to finish the whole thing, but I persevered.
For our last night, we got some tickets to see jazz at Agharta, which is just a block or two off of Old Town Square, and thus caters to tourists (the musicians even introduced themselves and their songs in English -- ONLY), which is always a bit of a bummer, but it was a neat space and a great band.
The club, like the Klub, is underground. In another small cavernous space, the band was set up: piano, double bass, tenor sax, and drums -- one of the better jazz combos, in my opinion. We had a table right up front, so it was really fun to watch the solos and really get into the music.
The club had a few things for sale, one of which was a huge poster of the history of jazz and blues, which little photographs of tons of musicians and some details about them all arranged in a sort of family tree of music. I wanted to buy one for my brother, who plays piano -- and lots of jazz -- but I wasn't sure I could trust myself to keep up with a poster as I traipse through Europe for the next two months. Perhaps I will regret it.
A fantastic end to a wonderful three(ish) days in Prague.