I'd met a new friend on the ferry back from Palmižana, and after a series of happenstantial meetings on the main square this morning, this Frenchman and I ended up renting a scooter together for a day.
Upon our valiant, motorized steed, we rode for 45 minutes or so to the north side of the island. The landscape on the way there is interesting: Much more elevation gain than I had expected, and lots (LOTS) of little stone walls built into the countryside all over the place. I asked later, and they are for the reason I suspected: to curb erosion. We also passed a few lavender fields, but sadly, the harvest had already been picked.
We arrived in Vrboska, and it was at least ten minutes before we saw another living soul. The smaller villages on Hvar island are already out of tourist "mode" -- for them, now it is officially off-season.
We did manage to find, however, an open cafe on the harbor where we could sit outside, grab a bite, and enjoy the sunshine.
Afterward, we drove over a tiny bridge to reach the far side of the bay, and another few minutes left us at the entrance to a decent-sized beach. It still wasn't a sandy beach, but it had a cafe and a few lounge chairs for rent.
There was a long stretch of coastline just past the beach that had some nice rock ledges and places to perch -- we chose one to have to ourselves (not difficult since I believe we saw approximately six other people in the entire vicinity). The Frenchman went for a swim, and I read Paul Bowles in the sun. It was windy, but still enjoyable.
After leaving Vrboska, we had a quick look around Jelsa, another nearby village, and stayed long enough in Stari Grad to have a coffee (tea for me, por supuesto) before heading back to the south side of the island.