Fortunately, the weather in Zagreb changed on my last day there to a cold and rainy autumn, so my arrival in Stockholm was less of a jolt than it could have been. It is certainly chilly here, but it makes for an appropriate cozy atmosphere when you're inside a coffee shop having a fika with a friend.
So, let's start there with one of my favorite things about Stockholm so far:
For Swedes, "having a fika" means taking a break from work, shopping, or whatever you're doing to have coffee and something sweet, like a pastry, with a friend. For me, the custom is amended to replace coffee with tea, but the "something sweet" stands firm: The most traditional fika snack is a cinnamon roll. The Swedes even have a holiday for it: kanelbullens dag (Cinnamon Roll Day!) on October 4. I'm quite sad to have just missed it.
Swedes LOVE their coffee, but I don't get too many funny looks when I order tea. (Okay, maybe just a raised eyebrow or two.)
Funnily enough, a local told me that PressBryån actually sells a pretty good cinnamon roll. These are the little news kiosks that you can find in most subway stations, train stations, and any decently busy shopping street. I find it funny because that's like saying that in U.S., the best apple pie can be found at 7-Eleven.
At any rate, I heartily approve of the fika, and I think drab, autumn-cum-winter weather is the perfect time to enjoy it!