I've been here for under 20 hours so take this with a grain of salt, but I love Hong Kong. Everywhere I look it's neon signs and burning incense and gorgeous skyline.
I got in around 7 last night and found my hostel after only three trips back and forth across the same intersection and two kindly stranger interventions (pretty good for me!). Passed out hard around 8 and slept through till morning, take that jet leg. I made my way to a famous noodle shop but it didn't open until noon, so I wandered around the Kowloon fruit markets until my stomach and raging caffeine headache won out and I popped into an anonymous diner that was crowded with locals. Ordered butter toast, a fried egg, a beef noodle soup and coffee strong enough to peel paint off a barn. Apparently restaurants here give everyone a cup of weak tea to rinse off their silverware/chopsticks in. Wish I would have read that somewhere before I gulped down a full cup of it. The lady sitting next to me caught my eye and gave the barest of head shakes, then gestured to her own cup holding her spoon. Too late. I was on glass two, although that did explain the waitresses laughter.